At Manasarovar

15^th June – Manasarovar – 15000 ft

We started off early after breakfast and headed towards Manasarovar. We first sighted Rakshas Taal, which is a huge lake said to be built by Ravana. Soon after, we were on the banks of the Manasarovar and everyone was jumping with glee. After so much of hectic travel, we had reached our 1^st destination.  Swamiji pointed out a spot between two snow caps where Kailash is supposed to be located, but the cloud cover prevented us from seeing anything.

Manasarovar

Kailash - from across Manasarovar

Clouds around holy Mt Kailash are a peculiar phenomenon. You wouldn’t see much of clouds anywhere else around; all other snow capped peaks are clearly visible. But only around Kailash there would be a thick shroud of clouds, and they would blend into the background in such a way as if nothing really exists at that spot. He is the Mayadheesh, He covers and reveals Himself as per His wish. The devotee can only pray for his darshan.

All of our spirits were slightly dampened as we did not get the darshan of Kailash yet. We proceeded on our vehicles towards another portion of the Manasarovar lake to take a dip. Most of us were carrying a set of clothes in the backpack for the bath. I was advised not to dip in the frigid water as I was running a high fever.

As people engaged in taking a bath, I moved away from the group and sat silently on some pebbles by the lake, gazing constantly at the location Swamiji had stated to be the position of Kailash. I took out my binoculars and started seeing around. Kailash was still not visible. And then it happened. Even as I pulled up the binoculars to the eye, within a fraction of a second the entire cloud cover over Kailash disappeared as if a curtain had been removed! The Lord revealed his Abode in all His glory, fully covered with snow, shining bright in the dazzling high altitude sun!

Namamishamishana Nirvaana Rupam
Vibhum Vyapakam Brahma Veda Swaroopam
Ajam Nirgunam Nirvikalpam Niriham
Chidakarmaakaasha Vaasam Bhajeham.

Salutations to Kailashpati ! That one moment took away all the tiredness of the journey. In that one moment, the strength came back to the body and the mind.  That one moment had fulfilled the purpose of this whole journey, all the hardships undertaken seemed like small pin pricks on the way.  Salutations to Kailashpati, the Lord of the Universe!

He Chandrachuda Madanantaka Shoolapane
Sthano Girisha Girijesha Mahesha Shambho
Bhutesha Bhitabhayasoodana Maamanatham
Sansara Dukha GahanaajJagadeesha Raksha:
Sansara Dukha GahanaajJagadeesha Raksha:

All the emotions welled up and started flowing through the eyes - 

Vishveshwaraya NarakarnavTaranaya Karnamritaya ShashishekharaDharanaya
Karpurkanti Dhawalaaya Jatadharaaya, Daaridra Dukha Dahanaya Namah Shivaya:
Daaridra Dukha Dahanaya Namah Shivaya:

Mount Kailash is more than twice the size of all the snow peaks seen in the region. It clearly stands out, and etches a deep imprint in the minds of the devotee for a lifetime.

Kailash

Our vehicles took us to Chihu guest house, which again is a mud house but is beautifully located on the bank of the Manasarovar and offers a clear view of holy Mt Kailash whenever He chooses to reveal Himself. I was running a high fever and took to rest in my bed as soon as it was allotted. I could not manage to get up until next morning.

16th June – Manasarovar – Darchen (16000 ft)

People taking a dip in Manasarovar

Today was the day of the Havan on the bank of Manasarovar, facing Kailash. My fever was out of control even after taking 4 paracetamol tablets a day, so a dip in the Manasarovar before the havan was ruled out. I changed into a fresh set of clothes and got ready to proceed for the Havan.

Apparently, the previous night, the tour manager had prepared 4 lists – a) people who needed to be evacuated due to illness b) people who would stay on in Darchen but would not proceed to the Kailash parikrama due to health reasons c) people who would do the parikrama on a horse d) people who would do the parikrama on foot. He had also collected the money for booking the horse for those who needed it and placed the order with the Chinese tour coordinator. My name figured in the first list – people who needed to be evacuated.

We proceeded to the bank of Manasarovar after breakfast. Swamiji had brought with him all the arrangements required for Pooja and Havan. This was setup with the help of some of his Ranchi devotees. After the pooja, the havan started and we were asked to take turns for the Havan in 5 groups, each person chanting the Maha Mritunjaya Mantra 21 times. I sat in the 2^nd group.

However, when it was the turn for the 4^th group, it was found that most people had already done it in the first 3 groups and there was space for more people. Swamiji allowed any person desiring to repeat to sit again. I sat down for the havan and this time it was conducted with 45 chants of the Mahamritunjaya Mantra.

Partly due to the effect of the havan, and partly due to staying in the penetrating sun for such a long time, I felt much stronger physically and mentally. Just at that time, Srihari Rao ji appeared from nowhere and started scolding me for being mentally weak and giving up on the parikrama too early.  He advised me to attempt the parikrama on a horse.

True, I had a mental block that I would either do the parikrama on foot or not do it at all. A horse was out of question. Now that I was feeling stronger, my mindset changed and I approached the tour manager to arrange a horse for me for the parikrama. He tried to dissuade me once because of my fever and the fact that the parikrama is tough, and even with hiring the horse one would still need to walk about 10km where the horse is not allowed. Something told me that I could do it, and I stayed put.

We returned back to the guesthouse for lunch. Swamiji was justifiably cross about few people not attending the havan as this was the main program in our itinerary.  Apparently, a couple of members of  our group members had stayed out most of the night on the bank of Manasarovar braving inclement weather in the hope of sighting devi devatas (gods and goddesses) taking a dip in the Manasarovar at brahma muhurtam. They claimed to have sighted some devi devatas coming down as flashes of light or “Ulkas” into the lake. However they took ill thereafter and were unable to attend the havan and were also unable to proceed on the Kailash parikrama. So much for sighting devi devatas.

There is a myth that devi devatas come down for a bath in Manasarovar at brahma muhurtam (pre-dawn) as flashes of light. This has been fed on by folklore and by word of mouth of the devotees.  A web of stories has been built around this over time, and some even published in travelogues from reputed publishing houses. This however has no religious or scientific basis. More on this myth a little later.

Rakshas Taal - The lake built by Ravana

Gurala Mandhata Range

Post lunch we proceeded to Darchen where we were put up in the Darchen guest house, again a mud house. This would be our base camp for the parikrama. I collapsed into the bed as soon as I was allotted the room.


Next >>  Parikrama - Day 1