Parikrama -Day2

 

18^th June – Diraphuk – Dolma La – Zuthulphuk - 18600 ft

Despite being uncomfortable and cold, ‘ajapa’ and the vibrations of the place were clearly felt during the night. After all, we were right next to the Abode of the Lord.

I woke up to a dull, cold morning, still feeling tired and feverish. But both the porter and horse were ready and waiting for me to make a move. Today was to be the toughest day of the Parikrama when we were to cover 22 Km. There wouldn’t be any shelter in between, it would have to be a go or no-go. A number of people from our group decided to return back to Darchen base camp instead of proceeding forward.

After a breakfast of milk and cornflakes and the usual diamox and paracetamol, we were given the packed lunch (again sandwiches, chocolates and biscuits). I was still running a fever and was hoping to get on to the horse right at the guest house. But to my dismay, all the horse owners had moved 2 kilometers away across a semi glacial stream which would have to be crossed on foot. The route to that place was all boulders and I had a tough time walking that distance. My porter Poorpo who was accompanying me looked at me disapprovingly and indicated his recommendation that I go back to Darchen instead of proceeding, as much tougher trek lay ahead for the day.

I had faith in the Lord and faith in paracetamol that my strength would be back by the time I needed to walk the next stretch. I continued and managed to scrape through across the river and boarded the horse.

Nearing Dolma La Pass

The trek continued to climb steeply over a narrow trail. After about an hour’s continuous climb we were at an inflexion point. Ahead lay a much steeper climb which led to the Dolma La pass at 18600 ft, the highest point of the journey. Snow had started appearing in small patches along the path here and there. After another 45 mins of climb, we were walking completely on snow. Each step was a struggle, not only for the experienced Tibetan porter and the horse owner but also for the horse, which was breathing heavily. I got down from the horse a couple of times to allow the animal some rest and all three of us had some chocolates, dry fruits and water which I was carrying in the backpack.

 The climb continued over snow. My horse slipped dangerously over snow a couple of times but I managed to hold on. After some more effort we were near the top of the pass when my horse owner gave up and asked me to get down and walk.

I slowly crossed over the highest point along with my porter and stopped for taking some pictures. The surroundings were breathtaking, but there was hardly any oxygen to breathe!

At Dolma La

All around the pass were walls of snow with ragged edges towering high over us. On our right was Mt Kailash, the abode of the Lord, whose lower reaches were visible, the upper part being under cloud cover.  The landscape was an enthralling combination of glistening white snow and hard black rocks.

We were asked to dismount at Dolma La

Passing by Gauri Kund

Gauri Kund - The lake of Goddess Parvati

On the other side of the pass the descent began, and we were to walk down the next 8 kms after which the horse would be available again. The initial path was a combination of snow and large black boulders and this led us to Gaurikund, a small yet enchanting greenish white pond, largely frozen. A steep, almost vertical ice wall descent from our path leads to the surface of the lake. Only the most daring sherpas can attempt this descent and ascent back; I was no way up to the mark. This is the lake where Goddess Parvati is said to bathe daily. After taking a few pictures of the lake I moved on.

The next kilometer or so was a reasonable slope completely covered with snow. Contrary to what most people describe, I found this snow field quite easy to negotiate. The snow is treacherously soft at places and your foot can sink in deep, but I was soon able to identify a trail of hard snow. My shoes along with the stick was providing sufficient grip and I was able to move quite fast over this stretch without feeling out of control at any time.

After the snow field ended there started a long nightmarish stretch where we had to walk (or rather hop) over boulders on a steep descent. About 50% of the boulders are not guaranteed not to rollover when you step on them, so you have to test each rock before you transfer your weight to it. There is every chance of twisting your ankle or your knee at this stretch and that can only make your life more miserable. There is no trail existing here, you have to figure out your own path. There are two choices -

1. Trust your own judgment, test each rock and move slowly.
2. Trust and follow the instincts of your porter who has trekked this path at least a few hundred times before.

You would think option 2 is the obvious choice. It is not. 

My porter - Mr. Porpoo

Your porter is far more adept at handling this path than you are, but he tends to think that you are as capable as him.  The porters tend to apply a shortest path first algorithm. This is necessarily also the steepest and the riskiest path, and more often than not you will find yourself incapable of negotiating it.

After an arduous trek of over 4 hours we made it to the point where the horses were resting. After finishing packed lunch, I boarded the horse. The trail from here was on level ground – or rather, as level as level can be in the Himalayas. The remaining journey for the day seemed unending. After a long time I saw some tents put up on open ground. My horse owner mistook this to be our destination for the day, only to find that these tents were for another tour company. We continued for another kilometer or so to get to the mudhouse at Zuthulphuk where I found our tour manager waiting with open arms to welcome each one of us completing the toughest day of the trek.

Fortunately, I had made it to the mudhouse before it started raining heavily.  Kohli ji got drenched, and there weren’t sufficient dry clothes to change into. This hurt bad. He fell ill at night and the sickness continued for the rest of the journey.

Most of us made it to Zuthulphuk by 7 pm or so. However, there was a group of 3 gujarati ladies who were doing the parikrama on foot and refused to utilize a horse at any stage. They trudged through rain and hail in pitch dark and made it to the camp at 2 am in the night.


Next >> Parikrama - Day 3: Back to Manasarovar